Gear and Systems

This baby is the lightest locking carabiner on the market and therefore my favorite. They are certainly not as durable as other options, but I am a big fan of these things.

My preferred carabiner for a GriGri and an adjustable daisy chain while free climbing only. If aid climbing, I prefer two non-locking Petzl sm’ds on two adjustable daisies. For French freeing, I prefer a single adjustable daisy with a Petzl sm’d screw lock. More on this below.

I use these relatively heavy carabiners on my cams. Necessary… perhaps not but I do really enjoy that snag free gate… particularly while aid climbing. I should probably get lighter carabiners but these things are pretty sweet.

I use these as the main carabiners on draws and slings because they are light and cheap. They do sometimes feel too flimsy to trust, but I trust them.

These get an honorable mention. I don’t use these too often but they feel less flimsy than the Nano 22s and this would be a great option to switch all carabiners to for cams, slings, and draws.

I had the privilege of testing these things before they came out, and I am beyond stoked on them. They are the best lightweight ladder I’ve ever used. I’ve used these extensively in Patagonia and Yosemite and they are seriously one of my favorite pieces of gear.

These lightweight foot loops are killer and better than any competing models. Black diamond made one that is similar but in my experience, less durable.

These need to be modified with different cord but these things are the way for big wall and aid climbing.

Made in the Basque. These things rule. I typically prefer to climb with a single rack of totems and a single rack of BD Z4s with BD Ultalights for larger sizes.

I feel like nuts are underutilized these days. I almost always carry the yellow and blue alloy nut in addition to the red BD offset nut which is just slightly smaller than the DMM yellow. I will occasionally take the DMM red. I find the light blue useless and grey somewhat useless.

The largest four sizes are extremely useful and I like to carry them with me on routes that I am not familiar with.

I’ve had a few of these and I’m a big fan. Arcteryx harnesses seem like the only ones that might be better but I’ve never had a connection to the brand and they are pretty pricy.

This thing is sweet and comfy. I’m a big fan and think this is the best big wall harness on the market.

Simply one of the best climbing tools ever made. I use this thing to haul, to simul, and for general rope management. I’ve used the Edelrid version but I prefer Petzl.

This thing is light and awesome to use in the alpine but I prefer the Micro most of the time. The one place I like to carry it not in the alpine is for hauling on lead. I don’t think the weight savings is that worth it in general.

This ice axe is very light weight and climbs very well on steep ice relative to other light options. This is the tool for climbing in the Chalten Massif and just about everyone has one down there. After my first visit, I quickly opted to purchase a second. I also use this axe for ski mountaineering missions.

These crampons are the shit! I use them extensively. For those who ski and climb and want a single crampon. These shine because they are quite light but still have steel front points. The ideal set up is to have a set us these plus the full aluminum version plus all the attachments.

I use these for real ice climbing and like them more than the other options I’ve seen and tried out but I’m not really an ice climber.

My first alpine pack was the Patagonia Ascensionist version 1. This pack was seriously awesome for technical climbing, but it was not durable, and I ultimately destroyed it. The new Patagonia Ascensionist pack works very well as gear hauler, but I honestly am not a fan of it for on-route climbing. I briefly want to mention 3 other packs that I’ve used for on-route climbing that I really dig: Parbat designs A4M, Arcteryx Alpha FL series, Exped Icefall.

I’ve used most of the various options out there. I think Black Diamond haul bags are the most comfortable to carry. This alone makes them my favorites because I’ve spend a lot of time with a haul bag on my back. The Metolius Half Dome haul bag is my favorite size bag for a big wall.

They don’t make this thing anymore but it’s super light and bomber. In general, I am a big fan of lightweight 2 person single wall tents. The First Light by Black Diamond is a classic but Samaya makes the lightest options out there. I’ve used both and will likely purchase a Samaya tent before the next time I head down to Patagonia.

This sleeping bag is super light and warm and it’s my go to. Western mountaineering bags are the best out there in my opinion but also the most expensive.

My favorite pad but also one that always seems to get a hole. I’ve gone through 4 but they are the best I’ve found. I think the new one has the letters NXT after the name.

I don’t own one myself, but I’ve borrowed them from friends extensively. G7s are awesome and worth the hype but it is very worth noting that they have limitations and are a very specialized ledge that in my opinion are not always worth using. They shine on walls where there are natural ledges or for light and fast alpine walls where weight really matters. I would never want to bring one on any El Cap route to the right of the Nose. In fact, I wouldn’t really want to bring a G7 on any El Cap route besides the Nose, Freerider or the variations of Freerider. The main reason is that G7s are flimsy and not easy to cook or hang out on.

I own this ledge and love it for sunny El Cap missions. It’s easy to set up, lighter than the BD version and comes from a small and cool company. The fly sucks relative to BD and I don’t recommend buying this ledge for a wall in bad weather as a result.

This ledge is the move for a big wall in bad weather. It’s more of a pain to set up but it is bomber and comfy.

This is the best layer ever! It’s insanely versatile and easy to deploy and pack up. I have a Houdini clipped to the back of my harness or on my body for 99% of multi-pitch climbing.

My preferred sun hoody.

This thing isn’t the warmest option out there, but I find it incredibly comfy and not very smelly to wear for a couple weeks straight. If the climbing is cold, I wear this. If the climbing is warm, I wear the Tropic Comfort Hoody.

A classic layer that is worth the hype. Watch this video and I shall say no more:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kni-AVRYwA8

This is my favorite insulated jacket of all time. It has an incredible warmth to weight ratio and has a great fit. It’s everything I want in a light insulated jacket, but it does have one flaw… It is very challenging to pack into its pocket. The good news is that a new version will be coming out that will fix this issue. The above items I mentioned make up the layering system I use for 90% of my climbing.

Sadly this is discontinued but it’s so warm and I love it. The Patagonia AlpLoft Jacket is a new option that is both less expensive and less warm.

I love these climbing pants (both the regular and light version which is pictured above) as they are very comfy, stretchy, and contain a slim fit. Rumor has it, the light version may be discontinued in the near future unfortunately!

Comfy and not very smelly to wear for a couple weeks straight. These are my preferred base layers for climbing in the cold.

I am a HUGE believer in hiking approaches in shorts unless it is gravely cold outside. Pants make you sweat more and there is nothing worse than sweating buckets on an approach. I frequently pack in a pair of climbing pants in my backpack and change into them at the base of the route. If I am climbing a route where I will not be returning directly to the base, I will hike in my underwear. I cannot emphasize how much I hate hiking in pants! I primarily use the Patagonia Nine Trails 8” shorts.

I used the OG vapor for years and loved the fit and feel but I went through 3 or 4 of them because they are not very durable, particularly during travel. The new ones seem way more durable, and I am a big fan in general but they do have one massive flaw… I find that this helmet does not work very well with a normal sized headlamp. Unless I am using a lightweight headlamp like a Petzl Bindi, the helmet feels unbalanced with a heavy weight on top. However, I did just receive a newer prototype Vapor II that uses the original Vapor I strap and it appears to solve this issue so be on the lookout!

I had this knife for a long time till I lost it. It’s super low profile. I recommend storing this in a pocket on a chalk bag or pack as opposed to on a carabiner on your harness except on the descent.

This thing has a knife on it so when climbing in Patagonia or someplace alpine, skipping an independent knife may be the move.

These are simply my favorite climbing shoe ever. I wear them most of the time but I generally avoid them for sport climbing, bouldering, and for technical edging.

I use this shoe for sport climbing, bouldering, and technical edging.

I’ve always really liked these shoes for general purpose approaching and climbing because they fold up nicely and fit onto the back of harness better than most shoes and I think they climb well. They are not particularly durable, and I’ve likely gone through around 10 pairs in the past 5 years.

These are my go-to shoes for big wall climbing. They are way more durable than the TX2s and happen to be pretty waterproof when walking in snow which is pretty sweet in the alpine.

I find these to fit my feet quite well and I also find them more comfortable than the TX2 or TX4. I don’t think they climb as well but I find that they thrive in the alpine on long approaches. I also used a pair for my Yosemite season this past Fall and was quite happy with their performance on big walls.

This mid layer is advertised as a climbing layer, but I exclusively use it for skiing, and I love it for this purpose. This is because I find it more breathable in the back which is quite nice being that I’m always wearing a backpack while skiing.

These are my preferred bindings for freeride and general backcountry skiing. The spacers make a difference and for the price difference, I believe it is worth going with the 15s even if that high of a din is not necessary.

This is my prefered lightweight ski binding. I really dig ATK and this style of binding in particular. The Haute route plus isn’t easy to find but I think it’s very worth it over the regular Haute route because you do not need to rotate the heal piece to access different riser heights.

Long fixed length ski poles are the future! Batons de Alan started things off, but Fulkrum is slightly cheaper and has a more ergonomic grip. Yes, they may look stupid on the downhill, but they are a huge win on the uphill.

I have a general belief that people care way too much about what brand or type of ski they use. I sometimes cringe when I hear a claim that one specific brand makes “the best skis”. In general, I feel that the best ski is the one that can be purchased for the best deal as long as they are the correct, weight, shape, and size. I ski Blizzard Zero Gs and I’m a big fan because ya know, Blizzard makes the best skis. I have older model 108s with the Raider Evo 15s and 95s with the Haute Route 10 Plus.

Blue is my favorite flavor of Pomoca skins. This brand simply makes the best skins in my opinion.

This tag line is incredibly light and durable but also quite expensive. I don’t own one but if climbing with a tag line in your pack, this is the rope to use. The one major downside is that it will slide on double rope rappels. There are some ways around this, but I have yet to find a perfect solution for every scenario.

This stiff cable like tag line is ideal for rappelling big walls. I’ve used it a ton in the mountains and really like it. It’s similar to the Esprit Alpine Personal Escape Rope but slightly heavier and half the price. I have yet to use the new Black Diamond 6 mil tag line, but I recently noticed many of the reviews are critical because people complain it is too stiff. This makes me quite excited to try it out as this is the exact trait I look for in a rappel line.

This is by far my favorite rope as it is both light and durable… the only two traits in a rope I care about. I sadly do not have an Edelrid hookup so I don’t use it regularly, but I will be bringing a couple down next time I go to Patagonia.

Ths is my prefered sling to use, as I find it light and not bulky. It also does not snag becasue of the sewing style of the bar tack

This is my favorite headlamp and I use it probably 90% of the time I bring a headlamp, including multiday trips. I really despise the extra wight of a headlamp on my head while climbing or hiking.

These things make wall living super organized. We had about 10 of them down in Torres del Paine and we could have used more.

I’ve been using the same GoPro to film YouTube videos since 2018. The back of the screen is completely cracked, and the camera is beat up, but it still works and shoots in 4k. My set up these days mostly consists of the single GoPro in my pocket with 2 to 3 batteries per day of climbing. If I want to shoot helmet cam footage, I use a removable GoPro helmet strap. I do not use the adhesive helmet mount because of the risk of it coming off.